Woodguard Wood Preservative
Woodguard is a two coat total exterior wood finishing system from ISK Biocides. The first coat is a deep penetrating, oil based, EPA registered wood preservative and log home finish. The second coat is a clear acrylic sealer that provides significant additional protection from the weather and sun. Used in combination they will protect your log home for five years when applied according to the manufacturer’s directions. Woodguard is designed for use on log homes, cedar or pine siding, as well as shake shingles and fences. The coating is available in six natural wood tone tints. Woodguard Wood Preservative has been reformulated to provide even better protection for your home. Woodguard’s new formulation penetrates deeper into the wood to provide substantially improved water repellency. The addition of Titanium Dioxide to the Woodguard formula provides enhanced color retention, fade resistance and delivers substantially improved UV protection. The new binder in Woodguard gives the product a drier feel to the touch and provides an excellent base for the Woodguard Topcoat. The two coat Woodguard Log Home Finish System will protect your exterior wood for five years when applied per the manufacturer’s instructions.

COAT 1: WOODguard Wood Preservative

• Deep Penetrating Oil Based EPA Registered Wood Preservative
• Prevents Rot
• Six Beautiful Log Home Tints
• Excellent Water Repellency
• Makes wood toxic to powder post beetles and termites
• Reformulated for Enhanced UV Protection

Exterior Surface Preparation Guidelines   NEW CONSTRUCTION  For general cleaning, a 6:1 dilution of water and oxalic acid well rinsed is suitable as a surface prep.  For especially grayed or iron stained surfaces, dilute oxalic acid up to 1:1 water to concentrate.  A light power washing (low pressure) with bleach, water and detergent is also suitable if thoroughly rinsed.   Mill glaze must be dissolved with Oxalic Acid or other specifically labeled mill glaze removal product.  Consult label directions for proper dilution ratios.  If in doubt, always assume you have mill glaze.  Allow the liquid to sit on the wood surface for about 20 minutes.  Rinse thoroughly.    Kill mold and mildew and their spores with detergent/bleach and water.  This mixture can be either misted on with a garden sprayer or applied through a pressure washer.  Rinse thoroughly.  A treating solution may be prepared with 4 gallons water, one-gallon bleach and ½ cup heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent.   Heavy deposits of mold may require a stronger bleach concentration.  (i.e. one part bleach, one part water.)  Always rinse until the rinse water is no longer foaming or soapy.  Always use bleach with water mixtures within an hour of dilution, otherwise the bleach loses potency.  EXISTING CONSTRUCTION  Old never coated structures should be prepped as in #1 or #3 above.   Previously stained or clear-coated wood can often be stripped of its old coating with a pressure washer and light chemicals such as those mentioned in #3 above or 6.a. below.   Multiple coatings applied over a period of many years or, newly cured paints, stains or films may require removal by the following methods, listed in order of expense and effort.  Begin at the top of the list, testing results before resolving to the most costly procedures toward the bottom of the list.   Caustic cleaner applied through a pressure washer.  Consult your dealer for recommendations.   Chemical Stripper – brushed, rolled or sprayed on, then removed with a pressure washer or manual scraping.  Many brands of paint removers are available.  Consult a professional paint store for assistance.   Corn cobbing, Sand Blasting and Palm Sanding are last resort approaches. Corn cobbing may leave an attractive media for mold growth.  Sanding closes up the pores of the wood.  Palm Sanding is very time consuming and costly.  All three methods compress the surface wood cells and inhibit WOODguard penetration.  They all require cleaning as in # 1 or #3 above prior to WOODguard application to ensure that the cell structure/grain is fully opened up again. OTHER WOODGUARD PRECAUTIONS, PREPARATIONS AND PROCEDURES  Avoid spraying glass windows and window screens with WOODguard.   WOODguard overspray on glass can be removed with standard window washing detergents or hose attachments.  When using the hose method, be prepared to thoroughly rinse the windows and make sure the residue does not remain on the wood surface below the windows to cause a streaked appearance of the WOODguard.  In the event of streaking, rinse well with clear water.  When dry, lightly re-touch with WOODguard and feather in the color with a brush.   Cover asphalt shingles with heavy cardboard or protective sheeting to avoid contact with WOODguard.  If WOODguard is allowed to soak into the shingles, it will soften and discolor them.   Protect plants and foliage from WOODguard overspray with protective sheeting.   Do not spray WOODguard with an electric atomizing spray gun.  Airless type delivery systems increase the inhalation risk.  A pump-up garden sprayer is recommended.  Use protective mask, especially when applying with anything other than a paintbrush.    When possible, apply WOODguard when the logs are their warmest and driest for optimum absorption.  Review the Product Bulletin for more information on application temperatures.   Application Avoid contact with plants, shrubs and trees.  Apply liberally to roof, siding or fence surfaces.  Simply wet down the surface as follows:   Spray Pump-up type sprayers are recommended. Set nozzle to deliver a low-pressure, coarse spray.  Apply evenly, back brushing or back rolling to remove drips and sags as necessary.  Do not use "airless"  spray equipment Brush A regular paintbrush is fine for most surfaces.  For uneven or rough surfaces, use a stiff bristle brush. Roller Use a long nap for rough surfaces. Surfaces to be coated should be clean and free of all loose debris.  Apply to warm, dry wood for maximum penetration and fastest curing.  WOODguard may be applied to cool, damp wood; however, performance will be reduced and earlier re-treatment will be necessary.  Cure time:  approximately two weeks at 70°F. Whichever application technique is used, WOODguard should be applied to the point of refusal.  Apply evenly, back brushing or back rolling to remove drips and sags as necessary.  The more WOODguard that is absorbed, the longer the treatment will last. Clean-Up WOODguard cleans up with detergent and water at the time of application, provided it has not soaked into the surface.  WOODguard will also clean up with paint thinner.   Maintenance One coat, well applied, is sufficient to repel water on vertical surfaces.  The following treatment schedule is suggested.  WOODguard has a cumulative effect in the wood with each application.   New construction One coat of approximately 150 - 175 square feet per gallon.  Always apply to the point of refusal.  Smooth out runs by "back brushing". Year 2 after construction One coat of approximately 150 - 200 sq. ft./gal.   Year 4 or 5 after construction One coat of approximately 200 sq. ft./gal.   Every 5 to 8 years thereafter One coat of approximately 200 sq. ft./gal.   Old weathered wood One coat to the point of refusal. Approximately 75 sq. ft./gal.   Surfaces subjected to standing water, chlorine, sprinkler systems, concrete flashback, or other harsh conditions may require earlier retreating or spot treatments.  Cold wood will not absorb as much of this treatment as will warm wood. WOODguard is a registered pesticidal product and under normal conditions, will control the growth of fungal organisms.  If mildew is present before application, it should be cleaned off with a solution of bleach and water.  WOODguard cannot prevent the reoccurrence of mold and mildew on extremely dirty surfaces or inadequately ventilated areas.  Weathered surfaces or surfaces with residue from previously-applied products that may still be sealing the wood should be power washed.  Mill glaze must be removed prior to WOODguard application for proper penetration.  Remember that WOODguard must penetrate to be effective. If the exposure conditions are going to be very hot and humid (tropical environment) or otherwise adverse, additional mildewcide can be added to provide extended mildew control. ISK Biocides’ technical representative can provide you with the list of compatible materials that are approved by EPA for such post-add applications. When tinted to a semi-transparent stain, the color in WOODguard will weather and fade naturally, particularly on unshaded areas with a southern exposure.  The rate of color fade will depend on the degree of sunlight or exposure, the depth of color produced by the amount of pigment added, and the porosity of the wood when coated. WOODguard is a registered trademark of IBC Manufacturing, Inc.

Frequently Asked Questions Table of Contents What is WOODguard? How much will I need? Is WOODguard easy to use? Is WOODguard safe? What are the benefits of using WOODguard? How does WOODguard work? How is WOODguard rated? What type of caulk should I use with WOODguard? My house has 3,000 square feet of exterior surface area to treat. My contractor applied 7 gallons of WOODguard.  Three months later it looks like it's gone. What's wrong? What is mill glaze? Can I use WOODguard on the interior of my log home? The WOODguard on my house went on VERY dark. It is much darker than the color shown in pictures and on the website. What's wrong? When should I add additional mildewcide to my WOODguard? What kind is recommended? Which producers include WOODguard with their new homes? What is WOODguard? WOODguard is an oil based EPA registered wood preservative, water repellent, and exterior finish designed for use on log homes, wood siding, and shake shingles. Regular maintenance prevents rot and decay. Top How much will I need? On initial applications one gallon of WOODguard will cover approximately 150 square feet of re-sawn cedar siding or about 200 square feet of logs. Always apply as much WOODguard as can be absorbed by the wood. Only one coat is required.  However, that one coat must be applied to the point of refusal. WOODguard will be too viscous to spray at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm, dry wood will absorb more WOODguard than cold, wet wood. Plan to apply WOODguard at a time of the year when you will optimize your labor expense, particularly when it comes time to apply your second coat at the 12-24 month point. Top Is WOODguard easy to use? WOODguard is easy to apply via brush, spray or roller. Just apply to the point of refusal. WOODguard does its job with just one initial coat. WOODguard cleans up easily with detergent and water. Top Is WOODguard safe? WOODguard is VOC compliant and meets all current state and federal air quality requirements. The active ingredient, copper 8 quinolinolate is suitable for use on wood that may have incidental food contact. WOODguard has very low odor during application and after it is cured it is virtually odorless. Top What are the benefits of using WOODguard? WOODguard protects against cupping, curling and warping. WOODguard controls fungus, wood decay, mold, mildew, termites and powder post beetles with its EPA registered wood preservative Copper-8-Quinolinolate. WOODguard penetrates deep and cures below the wood surface to enhance the natural beauty of wood.  Top How does WOODguard work? WOODguard's oil formula penetrates deeply into the wood structure, coating the wood cells where it molecularly bonds into the wood. WOODguard cures in a liquid state and remains flexible. WOODguard will not harden or crack through wide temperature and moisture extremes. Top How is WOODguard rated? An independent study of the log home industry concluded that WOODguard is the exterior wood preservative and stain most recommended to consumers by builder/dealers nationwide. The survey also revealed that more log home models were treated with WOODguard than any other product during their previous application. Top What type of caulk should I use with WOODguard? An oil based caulk is usually best, especially when applied over newly cured WOODguard. Consult your WOODguard dealer for specific brand recommendations. Top My house has 3,000 square feet of exterior surface area to treat. My contractor applied 7 gallons of WOODguard. Three months later it looks like it's gone. What's wrong? Way too little WOODguard was applied.  Always apply WOODguard to the point of refusal. If you can't get new wood to accept at least a gallon of product for each 175 square foot area, suspect a mill glaze problem. Review the maintenance schedule for approximate recommendations. Top What is mill glaze? Mill glaze is a sugary resinous surface barrier that may be buffed onto milled lumber or logs from the saw blade.  It must be dissolved prior to application of WOODguard to allow maximum penetration of WOODguard. A strong dilution of oxalic acid or mill glaze remover will dissolve the glaze.  Contact your WOODguard dealer for brand recommendations. Top Can I use WOODguard on the interior of my log home? Please don't. We recommend Natural Home Interior for this purpose. Top The WOODguard on my house went on VERY dark. It is way darker than the color shown in pictures and on the website. What's wrong? Nothing is wrong! WOODguard goes on VERY dark and lightens considerably during the cure period. If your WOODguard is NOT DARK upon initial application, this is an indication that you are not applying it to the point of refusal and are not getting a proper treatment. Top When should I add additional mildewcide to my WOODguard? What kind is recommended? If the exposure conditions are going to be very hot and humid or otherwise adverse, additional mildewcide can be added to provide extended mildew control. WOODguard cannot prevent the reoccurrence of mold and mildew on extremely dirty surfaces or inadequately ventilated areas.   If you decide to add mildewcide, we recommend a chlorothalanil-based additive such as M-1® or Add-2®.  Consult your WOODguard dealer for assistance. Top Which producers include WOODguard with their new homes?  Kuhn's Brothers Log Homes  Southland Log Homes  Heritage Log Homes  Beaver Mountain Log Homes  Air Lock Log Homes  Finger Lakes Log Homes  Gold Hill Log Homes  Gable Log Homes  Country Log Homes  Silver Creek Log Homes  Moose Creek Log Homes  Smoky Mountain Log Homes  Allegany Log Homes  BK Cypress Log Homes  Louisiana Log Homes  Amerlink Log Homes  Daniel Boone Log Homes  Lincoln Log (west of the Rockies)  Stone City Log Homes  Appalachian Log Structures  Beaver Log Homes (Michigan)  Alabama Log Homes Top